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| Jakarta at dusk |
High-rise buildings, slow-moving traffic and ever-grey sky –
these are the images that come to mind when I think of Jakarta. As the capital
and largest city of Indonesia, an archipelago in which over 238million people
reside, over 300 ethnic groups with 700 languages spoken, is that all there
is???
In truth, Jakarta is quite a challenging city for any type
of traveler. Due to lack of effective urban public transport and unfortunate
town planning, this metropolis is crippled by daily transportation problems.
Getting stuck in traffic for hours bother you very much but you simply cannot
get out and start walking because roads are not well connected and pedestrian-friendly.
Only a small percentage of locals speak fluent English therefore, even simple
things such as asking directions, ordering food and taking taxis become arduous
and unpleasant. Besides, apart from numerous shopping malls and a few
monuments, tourist options are somewhat limited for a capital city.
Having said that, there are indeed a few things I could
recommend for first-time visitors or those who are on a short business trip
wishing to catch a glimpse of leisurely Jakarta. Because I believe Jakarta, offers
a little more than polluted air, gigantic shopping malls and 101 different
types of motor and non-motorized vehicles. As a frequent traveler to Jakarta,
these are a few of my favorite things.
Old town, Batavia
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| Batavia Cafe |
Indonesia gained her independence from the Dutch in 1942 and
subsequently the city’s name was changed from the colonial name, Batavia to
Jakarta. Old town (also known as ‘Kota’), 30 minutes taxi ride north west from
the city centre, is where colonial
buildings, the legacy from the Dutch era dating back as early as 16th
century, can be found, still standing
yet poorly maintained. I like coming here on a Saturday, have my dim-sum lunch
at the historic Café Batavia and stroll around to observe actions on the
streets. Many young people come out in force, relaxed and in good spirits,
enjoying themselves and their hard-earned weekend. Some, with their cameras,
practice photography while some can be seen riding on colorfully-decorated
rental bicycles. Any square or piazza in the world would be incomplete without
street performers. Here as well, Fatahillah square serves as an exhibition space
for some interesting street activities such as BMX stunts, Fire-breathing acts
and even a whipping performance, effectively entertaining wide-eyed children
and tourists alike. What used to be the office of the Governor General of VOC
is now Jakarta History Museum, although it has been currently closed down for
renovation. I was lucky enough to visit but sad to see this elegant building
crumbling down when it was still open to public. Thanks to the funding of the
Dutch government, conservation activities are now being carried out and it is
expected to reopen in 2014. The nearby, “Wayang museum” which houses shadow
puppets, from various territories in Indonesia and also other countries, can be
a point of interest as well.
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| Jakarta History Museum |
A cultural promenade
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| Istiqlal Mosque |
Being the world’s most populous Muslim-majority nation, it
is only fitting that Jakarta has the largest mosque in South East Asia namely,
Istiqlal Mosque. The Arabic word, Istiqlal means Independence. Yes, you guessed
it right! The purpose of this massive religious structure is to commemorate
Indonesia’s freedom from the Netherlands at long last in 1945. The marble and
stainless steel building was built in 1961 under the supervision of Sukarno,
Indonesia’s first president and inaugurated by his successor, Suharto. Recently
graced by the visit of The Obamas, this humongous mosque should be visited on a
Friday afternoon to witness a sea of devout Muslims praying together creating
an uplifting yet peaceful atmosphere.
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| Istiqlal Mosque |
One could easily spend half a day having
a stroll around this area as Merdeka Palace, the neo-gothic style Jakarta
cathedral and the National Monument are also close by. To rest your exhausted
feet after the wander and indulge in some icy treats, Ragusa ice-cream shop, operating
since 1932, is the place to be. Situated in an old Dutch building, here you sit
on their ancient furniture, admire the black and white photos mounted on the
walls detailing the history of the shop and eat with the locals. Although some
odd names such as Spaghetti ice-cream are given to some of their creations, their
hand-made gelato, in reality, does not mess around with pasta, noodles or
anything foreign. It does occasionally mixes with fruits on some classic items
like Banana Split or Tutti Frutti.
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| Ragusa Ice-cream Shop |
Malls, Malls, Malls
Malling in Jakarta can be fun if done
in moderation. It not only kills time but also allows you to escape from the
harsh reality. Poverty that you see out on the streets of Jakarta does not
belong in these air-conditioned designer-branded malls. Acknowledged as ‘the
shopping town’, the area where two gargantuan malls, Plaza Indonesia and Grand
Indonesia, occupy, offers one-stop shopping from airplanes to needles. (Well,
maybe not airplanes but you figure!) As
for me, I love mall food; not only scrumptious Javanese cuisines also tasty
treats from other islands such as Manado and Sumatra can be enjoyed at anytime
of the day. You are spoiled even further for choice with wide variety of
Japanese, Italian, Chinese and Korean delights; all inexpensive, clean,
convenient and delicious. Once you are tired of widow-shopping, you can either
feed your feet to the fish at one of the fish spas, (if that’s your kind of
relaxation!) or catch a movie at the cinemas. There is always one Indonesian
horror movie and a few Hollywood blockbusters like “Spiderman” showing.
Underneath the stars
Jakarta is at her best when the sun goes down, glittering
night-lights switched on and trendy Jakartans come out to play. My favorite hangouts
include “The Social House” at Grand Indonesia Mall for casual dining,
newly-opened “Skye” at Manara BCA building, Jakarta’s first sky bar,
reminiscent of Bangkok’s Labua rooftop bar at State Tower, to view how this concrete
jungle transforms into an impressive neon-lit metropolis and of course “DragonFly”
for people-watching and booty-shaking alongside the in-crowd aka fashionistas. Forget
about pollution as you can no longer see it after 7, replace the sight of open
sewer and slums with girls in Louboutins and distract yourself with pounding electro
beats; Jakarta can be quite glamorous at night.
Despite the challenges they face every day, be it the mad
traffic or the lack of leisure activities, Jakartans, both locals and expats, living
in the city have learned to live, if not made peace with it somehow. Many of my
expat friends speak fluent Bahasa Indonesian, have learned to drive (or be
driven) to office though shortcuts and back lanes and are brave enough to hop
onto ojeks (local motorcycle taxis) when traffic gets rough. And, to be honest,
what’s traffic anyway when you have a smart-phone? Catch up on news, do your
mails or rant about it on Facebook through status update while being stuck in
traffic. It’s 2012, people! The smart phones nowadays will get you the
attention, sympathy or whatever that you are seeking in a crisis situation like
this which I believe can be a good consolation or at least a form of entertainment.
Well, now that reminds me why some Jakartans I know cannot
be separated from their Blackberrys.
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| Jakarta Cathedral |
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| Wayang Museum |
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